Mixed Climbing
While alpine climbing has used mixed climbing techniques for decades (most north-facing alpine routes are iced or snow-covered), the sport came to prominence with Jeff Lowe's ascent of the partially bolted Octopussy (WI6, M8 R) in 1994. Mixed climbing led to the sport of dry-tooling, which is mixed climbing on routes that are completely free of all ice or snow. At times, mixed climbing equipment has come under scrutiny from concerns that it was aid climbing (e.g. the lengths of tools used, and the use of heel spurs and of ice axe leashes).
Mixed climbing routes are graded for difficulty on an M-grade system, and the development of specialized mixed climbing techniques (e.g. stein pulls and figure-four moves), and equipment (e.g. fruit boots, heel spurs, and advanced ergo ice axes), led to dramatic increases in mixed climbing grade milestones, particularly from 1994 to 2003, and have been credited with pushing standards in the wider field of alpine climbing. Many modern mixed routes are bolted like sport climbing routes, but some routes require traditional climbing-type protection...Mixed climbing started by using existing ice climbing equipment for upward momentum (e.g. double ice axes and crampons), and existing traditional rock climbing equipment (e.g. nuts, hexcentrics and cams) or sport climbing equipment (e.g. bolts and quickdraws) for climber protection.[4]
As the sport of developed, specialized equipment was created including:[1]
- Fruit boots. These are lightweight boots with crampons that are bolted into the boot (and not clipped on as with the standard heavy mountaineering boots used in traditional ice climbing). They have become the standard in competitive dry-tooling and ice-climbing competitions.[5]
- Mono-points. Mixed climbers prefer mono-point crampons arrangements so that they can maintain more precise control over their footwork (which is more difficult with the traditional dual-point crampons).[1]
- Heel spurs. A mono-point crampon that extends from the rear of the boot to enable heel hooks and enable more extensive resting positions, however, the use of heel spurs has become more regulated in competition climbing as it has become considered to be akin to aid climbing.[5]
- Advanced ice axes. The requirement for mixed climbers to climb rock overhangs and rock roofs led to the development of more advanced ice axe designs; in addition, the need for extreme mixed climbers to avoid ice axe leashes (now banned in competitions) also required different handle shapes.[5][13]
"(Wiki)
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